Keeping Indoor Fish Outdoors

[00:00:00] Welcome to this episode of The Aquarist's Edge, a podcast for home aquarists just like you. Learn more about how to keep a thriving aquarium and discover ideas and tips to give your aquarium the edge. And now, over to our host, Arthur Preston. Hey everybody, welcome back to The Aquarist's Edge. It's been a week or two since I did the last episode, I'm afraid life has just got really busy.

[00:00:25] But hey, we're back and today we're going to talk about something that I think many of us as aquarium keepers have maybe thought about, some of us have tried it, sometimes successfully, sometimes not so successfully. But we're going to give it a go today to kind of explain what it's about and to see if we can share some tips that we'll all be able to use. And just to say up front as well, that this is going to take a southern hemisphere bias simply because that is where I'm based. I'm based in Cape Town, South Africa.

[00:00:52] And of course, when we are having our springtime, folks in North America and in Europe are having the autumn or fall time. So take it as you need to. If you're living in the southern hemisphere, then this is going to be exactly what you need to hear. If you're in the northern hemisphere, just swap things around and take the general ideas from this podcast. So let's get into it and let's begin to talk about what it means to keep indoor fish outdoors. And it's really one of those ideas that starts innocently enough.

[00:01:20] We're standing in front of the aquarium, the fish are doing well, the plants are growing. And you look outside and you think, hang on, I've got natural sunlight, fresh air, more space. Summer's coming. Can I keep some of these fish outdoors? And the answer is yes, sometimes, but not just casually. Keeping indoor aquarium fish outdoors can be absolutely brilliant. It can give fish more swimming room, natural algae grazing, live foods such as mosquito larvae,

[00:01:45] seasonal conditioning, better colour and even breeding behaviour that you may never see indoors. But it can also go wrong very quickly. A 24 degrees Celsius aquarium indoors is usually stable. A tub outside can be 18 degrees at sunrise at 31 degrees in the afternoon. And then in the evening or at night time be hammered by a cold front. Rain can dilute the hardness of the water. Wind can blow leaves and pesticides onto the water. A dragonfly nymph can turn your guppy fry into a buffet.

[00:02:14] And in countries like South Africa, Australia and Zealand, there's another huge responsibility for us and that is biosecurity because aquarium fish must never be able to escape into drains, streams, rivers, wetlands or dams. And so hopefully today you're going to end up having listened to this episode with a very clear idea of what you can and can't do and how to make sure that your indoor fish thrive outdoors rather than simply survive.

[00:02:38] We're going to talk about which fish can work outside, which should stay indoors and how seasons change planning, how to choose containers, how to manage temperature and many other things in between. So think about your own situation. Are you in Ghateng, a province in South Africa with cold winter nights? Are you in Durban, a city in South Africa with warm humidity? Are you in Cape Town with its Mediterranean climate but with lots of wind and winter rain?

[00:03:05] Are you in Queensland and Australia with heat and storms? Tasmania or New Zealand with cooler conditions? You know, your local climate matters more than almost any generic care sheet. And so ask yourself as you begin this process of thinking about moving some fish outdoors, what are my actual night temperatures? Where would the overflow go and what species am I considering? And can I keep the outdoor system safe, contained and humane? Now, the question should really not be can I keep aquarium fish outdoors?

[00:03:34] The better question is, what am I trying to achieve by keeping them outside? Because outdoor fish keeping is not automatically better, it's just different. And there are five main reasons hobbyists move indoor fish outdoors. And the first is space. A 60 litre aquarium indoors can feel decent, but a 250 litre outdoor tub gives fish more room, more water volume and more environmental complexity.

[00:03:59] For small live bearers, rice fish, white carb minnows, certain barbs, goldfish and some hardy killifish, that extra space can make a real visible difference. The second reason is natural food. Outdoor containers quickly develop tiny life. Green water, biofilm, insect larvae, microorganisms and algae can all become part of the food web. Fish that graze constantly often benefit from this. Now, for example, guppies, or e-life bearers for that matter,

[00:04:27] are not designed to eat one large meal and then politely wait 24 hours. They browse, they nip at algae, they investigate surfaces. And outdoors, they often behave more naturally. The third reason is sunlight. Sunlight can intensify colour, support plant growth and create a more dynamic environment. But sunlight is also powerful. It can overheat shallow water, fuel algae blooms and create big oxygen swings. So sunlight is not a simple magic upgrade. It's a tool and it needs control.

[00:04:58] The fourth reason is breeding. Many fish respond to environmental cues. Longer days, changing temperatures, fresh rainwater, increase of live food and seasonal shifts. Outdoors, these cues happen naturally. And that's why some fish that barely breed indoors suddenly produce fry when they go outside. The fifth reason is enjoyment. There's something that's really deeply satisfying about a tub outdoors, a balcony pond, a planted outdoor mini pond with fish moving between floating plants.

[00:05:27] It connects your aquarium hobby to gardening and it really slows you down. The benefit of outdoor fish keeping is not that nature does everything for you. The benefit is that you can borrow from nature while still accepting responsibility for the system. Now let's pause for a moment and speak specifically about southern hemisphere fish keepers. And I'm doing this because a lot of aquarium advice online is written from a northern hemisphere perspective. So when somebody says move your fish outside in May,

[00:05:56] that advice makes absolutely no sense if you're in South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, Chile or southern Brazil. May, for many of us, is autumn or fall heading into winter. So let's reset that calendar. In much of the southern hemisphere, the outdoor fish keeping season begins in spring, which is around September or October, once the night temperatures are stable. Summer runs through December, January and February and autumn arrives around March and April. Winter is June, July and August.

[00:06:25] But let's be clear about this. Your country is not your climate. South Africa alone can give you very different outdoor fish keeping realities. Durban may stay mild enough for some tropical species much longer than Joburg or Janusburg. Janusburg has warm days, but winter nights can be cold. Cape Town has Mediterranean-style winter rainfall, wind and cooler wet months. The low felds can be warm, but heat stress becomes a concern in summer. Australia is even more variable.

[00:06:53] Tropical northern regions can maintain warm water for much of the year, while southern states can experience winter conditions and are completely unsuitable for many tropical aquarium species. New Zealand fish keepers often need to think much more carefully about cool nights and legal restrictions, and that is why you should not plan around average daytime temperatures. Fish don't live in the afternoon forecast. They live through the coldest part of the night and the hottest part of the day. For outdoor aquariums, the number you care about most is the water temperature range over 24 hours. Not air temperature.

[00:07:22] Water temperature. A large, shaded 500 litre tub changes temperature slowly, while a black 40 litre bucket in full sun changes temperature quickly. A shallow container on concrete heats and cools much faster than a deeper container partly buried in soil or protected by plants. So here's the key principle. The smaller and shallower the outdoor system, the faster it changes. And we know that fish hate sudden change far more than they hate a stable condition slightly outside the textbook ideal.

[00:07:54] Let's also remember that survival is not success. If your fish are outside, they should be active, feeding, growing, displaying normal colour, and not constantly hiding, gasping, camping fins, or hovering near the woman's corner. So before moving any indoor fish outdoors, spend at least one week measuring the actual water temperature in the proposed container location. Measure early morning, mid-afternoon, and after sunset. And if you want to be more precise, use a digital thermometer with minimum and maximum memory.

[00:08:23] Your goal is to answer these three questions. What is the coldest the water gets? What is the hottest the water gets? And how quickly does it change? And that information will tell you far more than a simple species profile that you look up online. So let's then talk about those species. I'm going to group fish into broad categories because outdoor suitability depends on climate, container size, season, and your ability to protect them. And the first group I want to talk about is the hardy, temperate fish.

[00:08:51] These include goldfish, white cloud mountain minnows, some rice fish, and certain weather-tolerant species. These fish are generally better candidates for cooler outdoor conditions than true tropical fish. Goldfish, though, need a warning label. These are not small bollfish. They are large, they're messy, they have long-lived carp relatives that need substantial water volume and strong filtration or very mature pond-style systems. They can be excellent outdoor fish, but not in a 50-litre tub on a balcony.

[00:09:19] So, goldfish can be kept outdoors, but, you know, you've got to do it securely, responsibly, and never with a chance of escape. The second group is hardy, subtropical fish. This will include white clouds, many rice fish, paradise fish in some climates, and some barbs. These are often better seasonal outdoor candidates than delicate tropical species. They can handle a broader range, but they still need stability and protection. And the third group is live bearers, guppies, endless, platties, sawtails, and mollies.

[00:09:46] These are popular outdoor fish because they breed readily, they graze constantly, and they respond well to natural food. In warm areas, they can thrive outdoors for part of the year. But they are also among the fish most likely to become a problem if they escape into local water. So, live bearers reduce quickly and can establish dense populations when conditions suit them. So, you need to be careful that we're not accidentally or, dare I say deliberately, putting baby fry or live bearers into the local water system as well.

[00:10:15] We know they're going to breed, they're going to breed fast, and we don't want that becoming an environmental concern. The fourth group is tropical community fish. Now, this is where we need caution. Neon tetras, mini-rasboras, dwarf garamis, angelfish discus, rams, and many soft water tropical fish are not simple casual outdoor candidates in most southern hemisphere locations. Some may cope in warm regions during summer, but many are vulnerable to temperature swings, predators, and water chemistry changes.

[00:10:44] Could someone keep certain tropical fish outside in a carefully managed, heated, protected pond in a warm climate? Sure they could, but that's not the same as putting indoor fish outside for summer. And the fifth group is bottom dwellers. Corridoras, lurches, plecos, and similar fish need special care outdoors. They can be hard to observe. If something goes wrong, you're not going to notice it quickly. Some are temperature sensitive and some need high oxygen. Some are escape artists.

[00:11:09] I would be conservative with bottom dwellers here, unless you have a large, mature, secure system, and you know the species well. The sixth group is fish that should almost always stay indoors unless you are very experienced. This includes delicate, wild-type soft water fish, requiring very stable warmth. Fish with specialized diets, fish with long fins that attract predators, and fish that you cannot easily recapture. Here's a simple rule for beginners.

[00:11:36] Start with fish that are hardy, inexpensive, legal, easy to catch, easy to observe, and already suited to your local seasonal temperatures. Do not start with your favorite rare breeding group. Now, let's think about the system we're going to put these fish into. For outdoor freshwater fish keeping, container choice is one of the most important decisions you'll make. You can use a preformed pond, fiberglass tub, plastic stock tank, large ceramic pot, a raised pond, a half barrel with a liner, or a purpose-built outdoor aquarium.

[00:12:05] But whatever you use, it must be fish safe. Avoid containers that have previously held chemicals, pesticides, detergents, paint, oil, or any unknown substance. A bargain container you buy at your Facebook marketplace is not a bargain if it slowly poisons your fish. For most, I would suggest starting with at least 100 litres, and preferably 200 litres or more. Bigger is more stable, and bigger gives you more time to react. A 25-litre patio bowl may look beautiful with plants, but it's not forgiving.

[00:12:33] It can overheat, chill, foul, or evaporate quickly. And if you use very small outdoor containers, think plants and snails before fish. Now, where do you put this thing? The worst place for an outdoor fish container is in full sun all day long on hot paving. That setup can become a soup pot. The best position usually gives morning sun and afternoon shade, or bright indirect light with a short period of direct sun. Morning sun will warm the system gently, and afternoon shade protects the fish during the hottest part of the day.

[00:13:02] In southern hemisphere countries, remember that the sun tracks across the northern part of the sky. North-facing positions are usually sunnier. South-facing positions are often cooler and more shaded. East-facing spots get morning sun, and west-facing spots can be brutally hot in the afternoon. And let's not forget wind. The wind matters too, because wind increases evaporation, can blow debris into the water, and can chill exposed systems. Cape Town fish keepers, for example, should think carefully about wind protection.

[00:13:30] In dry inland areas, evaporation can concentrate minerals and raise hardness over time. And let's also not forget rain. A heavy storm can overflow a tub, dilute minerals, crash temperature, and wash contaminants from roofs, walls, paving, or garden beds into the water. Never ever position your fish pond or fish tub where a roof runoff pours into it. Roof water can carry dust, bird droppings, metals, paint residues, and other contaminants. Also think about your access.

[00:14:00] Can you net the fish easily? Can you shade the container quickly? Can you do a water change safely? Can a child or a pet fall in? And can the container overflow into a drain? Now, the last one isn't optional. Outdoor systems must be designed so that fish, eggs, plants, and contaminated water cannot escape into natural waterways or stormwater systems. For a safe overflow plan, keep the water level below the rim. Add mesh-covered overflow outlets only if they drain into garden soil or ever waterways. And place the container where overflow cannot reach a stormwater drain.

[00:14:31] If you're in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, or any country with invasive species laws, check the local rules. New Zealand's Department of Conservation states that approval is required to possess some live freshwater species. And there has been research in South Africa to show how the ornamental fish trade has contributed to invasion of species into the local environment. The principle is simple. Your outdoor fish setup must be escape-proof, flood-aware, and legally responsible. Now, what about filtration?

[00:15:01] Outdoor systems can tempt people into thinking it's outside, nature will handle it. Nature handles lakes, rivers, wetlands, and ponds through an incredible amount of dilution, complex food webs, plants, bacteria, sediments, sunlight, flow, and seasonal cycles. Your 150-meter tub is not a lake, and you still need biological stability. The nitrogen cycle works outdoors the same way it works indoors. Fish produce ammonia through their gills and waste. Uneascent food decomposes.

[00:15:29] Bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate. Plants and algae can take up the nitrogen, but they don't really your responsibility to manage the stocking and the feeding. Now, there are three broad ways to run an outdoor fish container. The first is to filter it. That can be a sponge filter, internal filter, a small pond filter, an air-driven system. Sponge filters are excellent for tubs because they provide oxygenation, gentle flow, and biological surface area. If you have fry, sponge filters are much safer than strong pumps.

[00:15:58] The second is plant-heavy and likely stocked. Now, this approach relies on low fish numbers, abandoned plants, mature surfaces, algae, floating plants, and regular observation. It can work beautifully, but beginners often overstock. The phrase balanced ecosystem is somewhat abused in aquarium keeping. You know, balance isn't a decoration style. Balance is the relationship between waste production and waste processing. And the third option here is hybrid. It's really the favorite for most.

[00:16:25] Use plants, mature media, and gentle filtration. That gives you the resilience of biology plus the safety net of aeration and water movement. Oxygen is especially important outdoors. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen than cool water. At night, plants and algae consume oxygen. During the day, plants and algae produce oxygen through photosynthesis. But after sunset, that oxygen production stops. In heavily green water or heavily planted tubs, oxygen can drop before dawn.

[00:16:55] And that's why you see fish often gasping early in the morning, not in the afternoon. If your fish are at the surface, at sunrise, take it seriously. Add aeration, reduce feeding, remove excess decaying plant matter, check your stocking, and check temperature. In hot climates, I strongly recommend an air pump, sponge filter, or a small fountain-style return for surface movement. Outdoor systems also collect leaves, insects, pollen dust, and dead plants. That organic matter decomposes and consumes oxygen.

[00:17:25] A few leaves can be fine, but a thick layer of rotting sludge really isn't. Your maintenance routine should include lifting out the leaves, thinning floating plants, checking filter flow, and spilling water. Yeah, that's right, smelling it. Healthy outdoor water may smell earthy. Rotten egg smell, sewage smell, or a sour smell means that something is wrong. A mature outdoor tub should feel alive, not stagnant. Now let's take a moment and talk about temperature.

[00:17:54] Indoor aquariums are protected from extremes. Outdoor containers are exposed to sun, wind, rain, cold fronts, heat waves, and seasonal shifts. Cold can affect fish in several ways. It slows metabolism. It slows digestion. It affects immune function. It can make fish lethargic. It can also make feeding dangerous if the fish cannot digest properly. For tropical fish, the issue isn't just one cold night. The issue is repeated exposure.

[00:18:21] A guppy may survive a cold dip, but if every morning begins with clamp fins and slow movement, that fish is not thriving. So for seasonal outdoor tropical fish, don't move them outside just because the daytime air temperature is warm. Wait until night's temperatures are consistently safe and the water temperature is stable. A good practical threshold for many is to wait until outdoor water is staying above roughly 20 to 22 degrees Celsius overnight, depending on the species.

[00:18:49] For subtropical fish, you could have more flexibility here. And for true tempered fish, cooler conditions may be suitable. Now what about heat? Heat's just as dangerous. In South Africa, Australia and parts of South America, summer heat can push shallow outdoor water above safe limits. Fish under heat stress can gasp, hover near the surface, become frantic, stop feeding or suddenly die. The danger zone depends on species, oxygen, acclimation and duration.

[00:19:14] But any outdoor system approaching the low thirties at 10 degrees Celsius needs attention. At high temperatures, oxygen availability drops, while fish oxygen demand rises, and that combination is dangerous. Shade is your best temperature tool. So use shade cloth, floating plants, patio umbrellas, timber screens or strategic positioning. But don't block all gas exchange. A sealed lid in summer can trap heat and humidity.

[00:19:42] Let's also remember that depth helps our thermal stability. A larger water volume changes temperature more slowly. Also remember that dark containers absorb heat. Black tubs in full sun can get very hot, while light coloured external shading can help. Also, where you position the tub in terms of the surface it sits on. A tub sitting on hot concrete absorbs heat a lot. A tub partly surrounded by soil, plants or insulation is a lot more buffered. Rain can also cause temperature shock.

[00:20:11] A thunderstorm dumping cold rain into a warm tub can drop temperature quickly, especially in a small container. So here's the outdoor temperature toolkit. Use a thermometer. Choose morning sun over afternoon sun. Add shade before the heat arrives, not after the fish are stressed. Increase aeration during heat waves. Feed less during extremes. Avoid moving fish during unstable weather. And have an indoor backup tank ready. Outdoor fish containers almost always grow algae. Now, that isn't automatically bad.

[00:20:40] Algae provides grazing surfaces, absorbs nutrients, supports microorganisms, and can help stabilise a young system. And many fish enjoy picking at it. The problem isn't algae existing. The problem is algae taking over because light, nutrients and stocking are out of balance. Green water is common outdoors. It happens when microscopic algae bloom in the water column. In mild amounts, it can be useful for fry and grazing fish. In extreme amounts, it can reduce visibility and contribute to oxygen swings.

[00:21:09] String algae can appear in bright light with nutrients. Blanket weed can smother plants. And surface algae can reduce gas exchange. Now, your first response should not always be chemicals. In fact, I'd avoid ultracides in fish tubs completely, unless you know exactly what you're doing. Killing algae quickly can create an oxygen crash as it decomposes. Instead, manage the cause. Reduce direct sun. Feed less. Remove excess organic waste. Add fast-growing plants. Improve aeration. And increase the water volume if possible.

[00:21:37] Floating plants can be extremely useful here. Frogwood, salvinia, water lettuce, duckweed, and similar plants provide shade and nutrient uptake. Potted plants are easier to control than loose invasive growers. Use gravel caps to keep soil contained. Avoid garden fertilizers unless you understand what they contain. Many, many terrestrial fertilizers are not fish safe. And also remember that plants respire at night. A heavily planted tub still needs oxygenation, especially in warm weather.

[00:22:04] When you keep fish indoors, the main predators are usually bad decisions and perhaps a curious cat. But outdoors, that list expands. Birds can take fish. Cats pour at the water. Frogs may arrive. Dragonflies can lay eggs. And let's remember, dragonfly and limps can be serious predators of fry and even small fish. Mosquitoes can breed if there are no fish or if there's insufficient surface movement. Ants, spiders, bees, wasps, and beagles can fall in.

[00:22:30] Depending on where you live, you may also have snakes, lizards, rats, or other wildlife investigating the water. Your goal is not to sterilize the outdoors. That's impossible. Your goal is to reduce risk. Use mesh covers when needed. Provide plant covers so fish can hide. Avoid placing tubs where cats can easily sit and fish. Keep water level below the rim so fish are less visible and less likely to jump out. Inspect your tubs for predator larvae. Use fine mesh and overflow points. And don't leave fish in outdoor containers that you can't observe.

[00:23:00] Now, what about feeding? Feeding outdoors is different from feeding indoors because the fish may already be eating. They may graze algae. They can pick up biofilm. They can eat insect larvae, small crustaceans, and microorganisms. Fry may feed on infusoria and green water. And that means that you often feed less outdoors, not more. Feed lightly. Watch the fish and remove uneaten food when possible. In warm weather, fish may be very active and hungry. In cold weather, their metabolism slows.

[00:23:30] As temperatures drop, reduce feeding. If the fish are sluggish in the morning, do not feed heavily just because it's feeding time. A good outdoor feeding approach might include a staple micropelletal flake, occasional frozen foods, blanched vegetables for grazing species, and the natural foods already present in the tub. For life bearers, a plant-rich outdoor system can provide constant grazing. For goldfish, offer sinking pellets or appropriate pond foods, and avoid things like bread, rice, or random kitchen scraps.

[00:23:59] For rice fish and small surface feeders, tiny floating foods work well. Outdoor fish can fool you. You may see them less often, especially in planted tubs, and some may be thriving while weaker individuals quietly decline. So make a habit of watching them feed at least once a day during the active season. If something looks wrong, act early. Outdoor systems can hide problems until they are advanced. Now what about breeding outdoors? Outdoor breeding can be incredibly rewarding. Life bearers may produce clouds of fry.

[00:24:28] Rice fish may spawn daily in warm weather. And white clouds may well breed in planted tubs. Goldfish can spawn in spring. And killifish can respond strongly to seasonal conditions. Now why is this? Well it's because the outdoors provides cues. It's longer daylight, natural micro foods, temperature variation, rain events, plant cover, more space, and quite honestly, less human disturbance. Fry often do better in mature outdoor systems because there's food everywhere. They can pick up microorganisms from their very first day.

[00:24:57] Floating plants provide cover, and adults may be less likely to eat fry because there's more structure. But breeding also creates risk. A few guppies can become many guppies. A few platties can become a population. And if you don't have a plan for fry, do not create a breeding system. This is especially important in warm southern hemisphere climates where some aquarium fish may survive outdoors or in nearby waterways if they escape. So ask yourself before breeding outdoors. Can I house the offspring?

[00:25:26] Can I rehome them responsibly? Can I prevent escape during storms? And can I prevent eggs, fry, or plads from entering stormwater drains? Never ever dump unwanted fish. Never release fry. Never pour plantries into streams, stormwater drains, dabs, or wetlands. Outdoor breeding is fun, but we've got to be ethical and responsible. Now how do we move fish from indoors to outdoors? You've chosen the fish. You've got the container. You've checked everything in terms of temperature. You're ready.

[00:25:56] The system is mature. So how do you go about moving indoor fish outdoors? Well, if your indoor aquarium is 25 degrees and your outdoor tub is 19, don't move fish. Wait. If your indoor water is very soft and your outdoor tub has become hard through evaporation, adjust slowly. Move the fish during mild weather. Don't move them during a heat wave, cold front thunderstorm, or sudden pressure change if you can avoid it. Mornings work well if the day will be mild.

[00:26:23] Late afternoon can work if temperatures are stable, but avoid leaving newly moved fish to face a cold night immediately. Acclimate them slowly and carefully. Use a bucket or container. Float or slowly mix the water if temperatures and chemistry differ. For hardy fish with similar water, acclimation can be simple. But for more sensitive fish, take the time you need. Also observe closely for the first 48 hours. This isn't the time to assume everything's fine because the fish disappeared into plants. Watch them.

[00:26:52] Confirm that they're swimming normally and feeding. And feed lightly at first. The outdoor system is adjusting to fish waste. Don't overload us immediately. And always keep an indoor tank ready. This is your safety net. If weather changes, if fish show stress, or if predators become a problem, you need somewhere to put them. And a seasonal outdoor setup should always have an exit plan. At some point, the seasons are going to change. In the southern hemisphere, this often means paying attention from March onwards, depending on your region.

[00:27:20] Muts will cool and the length of the day will shorten. Rain patterns can shift and the fish behavior changes. Don't wait until the fish are already stressed by the cold. Bring tropical and subtropical fish indoors while they are still healthy and active. A strong fish acclimates better than a weakened fish. So let's answer the question, can you keep indoor aquarium fish outdoors? Yes, you can, but only when you treat it as fish keeping, not as an experiment. Outdoor fish keeping can bring out natural behaviors, improve breeding success, provide natural foods,

[00:27:50] and create a beautiful connection between the aquarium hobby and the garden. But it also exposes fish to temperature swings, predators, storms, oxygen crashes, algae blooms, and legal responsibilities. If you've kept aquarium fish outdoors, I'd love to hear what worked for you. What species did well? What surprised you? Did you have any issues with heat, predators, algae, or cold nights? And that really brings us to the end of this episode.

[00:28:16] Folks, thanks again for listening, for taking the time out of your day to listen to this podcast episode. If you're watching on YouTube, please go ahead and subscribe to the channel, like the video, it really helps us. And if you're listening on a podcast app, please leave a review, add your comment. It's always good to hear from our Aquarist's Edge community. So on that note, I look forward to connecting with you in the next episode. Until then, keep learning, keep discovering, keep enjoying this amazing hobby. Bye for now.

[00:28:44] That's it for this episode of the Aquarist's Edge. Please consider subscribing to this podcast so that you don't miss further episodes. We would love it if you would also rate and review the podcast, as this helps make it visible to others. Until next time, keep learning and discovering, and keep finding your Aquarist's Edge in this captivating and fascinating hobby.